IN BELFAST, MAINE, A REVITALIZATION THAT BEARS WATCHING

Author(s): Nina V. Fuller, Globe Correspondent Date: March 10, 2002 Page: M23 Section: Travel

[A PUBLISHED CORRECTION HAS BEEN ADDED TO THIS STORY.]

BELFAST, Maine - The woman behind the counter spoke softly as I browsed around The Good Table on Main Street. "Write a nice article about Belfast for us," she said. I had been poking around this small coastal town for a few days and as in all small towns, the locals don't miss much. "But not too nice," she added.

At her desk, she sat high on a stool watching customers mill about the kitchen gadgets, pots, pans, and linens, and talked about other towns in Maine that used to be just like Belfast is today: Portland's Old Port in the '70s, Camden in the '80s.

This town is quietly reinventing itself as it proudly acknowledges its past. While the goods, cafes, and galleries here may point to gentrification, "real" stores catering to locals still thrive on Main Street. The hardware store has yet to sell out to a coffee chain, and the shoe store (the oldest in the country) still sells work boots, even if they are alongside chic rubber gardening clogs.

So many cities and towns lose their identity as the face of Main Street changes. Local businesses are forced to move out as rents are driven up, and before long one "historic downtown" looks just like any other. Not so with Belfast. So far, it has been able to maintain its character as the downtown area and wharfs are rehabilitated.

When it comes to character, the bears don't hurt, either - all 54 of them. Up and down Main Street, out in the bay on boats, clinging to pilings, peering from rooftops, they are everywhere.

Why? The artists and shop owners in and around Belfast decorate life-size fiberglass bears with paint, shells, clothes, mermaid tails, backpacks with paintings, bridal gowns, and graffiti.

Our favorite was Bear van Gogh, created by the Lincolnville artist Chris Osgood, with old paint-splattered clothes, an easel strapped to his back complete with a painting attached - and, curiously, two intact ears. Bear van Gogh is walking tall with one foot out in front of him on his way back from a day of painting energy fields and swirling skies.

After the summer and leaf-peeping seasons are over, the town auctions off the bears and donates the money to charity. It may take you awhile to get through Main Street, what with photographing the bears, having a coffee at Chase's Daily (the coolest coffee shop north of Nantucket), or shopping for Irish knit sweaters and cozy wool socks at Shamrock Thistle and Rose. When Main Street is behind you and you're at the wharf, sit by the dock of the bay, alongside - what else? - a few bears.

When you're done watching the tide roll away, tap Harvey Schiller on the shoulder. You can't miss him; he's the guy with the yellow kayaks. For $25 ($15 for children), you can spend an hour and a half out on the ocean in a kayak. It's OK if you have never done it before; Schiller is a registered Maine Guide and will teach you everything you need to know for the 3-mile trip along the coast. He's a Maine wit as well, so kayaking with him is a double dip of gliding along the coast and laughing till your boat rocks.

After a short lesson in paddling, demonstrated by Schiller with his special "Harvey Made" paddles, a group of us propelled ourselves through the fog to the other side of the harbor. The air was thick and wet; some would call it spitting rain but to us it was more like floating along in a very low cloud. We had on slickers with hoods, so a little fog didn't hurt.

The sea mist also intensified the colors and kept us hydrated as we paddled, laughed, and listened to stories about Maine, the water, the tides, the boats, the kayak customers, and how strong the women are nowadays.

By the time we got back to shore, the sun was peeking out again; Maine is known for that. A visit to the coast in spring, summer, or fall calls for a T-shirt, a sweater, and a windbreaker, and all three will be on and off as the day comes and goes.

Kayaking leads to hunger, so a few of the other water rats joined me for some food. Right there by the docks, Weathervane Seafood features Maine food all the way; lobsters, clams, mussels, and fish of all sorts.

Lobsters are a state specialty, and there is no finer way to dine on them than on a deck overlooking a harbor. The Weathervane's has a commanding view and can be enclosed in poor weather.

From our table we could see across the harbor and out to sea. As we savored our shore dinner and recounted the day's adventure, we could hear the gulls and the faint gong of a harbor buoy.

For accommodations, Belfast offers a number of fine inns, many of them once sea captains' homes.

I stayed at the Alden House, a stately Greek revival home built in 1840. It is filled with countless architectural details, not the least of which is the circular cherry stairway in the main entrance. Returning to the room after a pleasant walk back from the harbor, I was offered tea by innkeepers Bruce and Susan Madera, and it was accompanied by wonderful homemade sweets.

Back in the room, the antique bed with its crisp linens beckoned. As inviting as that was, I chose to sit for awhile watching the crackling fire and listening closely for the sounds of the harbor.

IF YOU GO... HOW TO GET THERE THE FASTEST WAY FROM POINTS SOUTH (BOSTON, PORTLAND) TO MID-COAST MAINE IS TO TAKE INTERSTATE 95 NORTH TO AUGUSTA, AND GET OFF AT EXIT 30. FOLLOW ROUTE 3 EAST TO BELFAST (ABOUT ONE HOUR FROM AUGUSTA). CONTINUE STRAIGHT AT THE ROUTE 1 INTERSECTION.

WHERE TO STAY THE ALDEN HOUSE 63 CHURCH ST. 207-338-2151; 877-337-8151 WWW.THEALDENHOUSE.COM DOUBLES $88-$125.

THE HARBORVIEW HOUSE OF 1807 213 HIGH ST. 207-338-3811; 877-393-3811 WWW.HARBORVIEWHOUSE.COM DOUBLES $95-$135.

THE WHITE HOUSE 1 CHURCH ST. 207-338-1901; 888-290-1901 WWW.MEBB.COM DOUBLES $75-$125 3 . [CORRECTION - DATE: 3/17/2002

Correction: Because of a reporting error, a Web site for The White House inn of Belfast, Maine, was incorrect last week. It is www.mainebb.com.)

WHAT TO DO BELFAST KAYAK TOURS HARVEY SCHILLER 207-382-6204